Installation Tips: (Please read all steps below before you start.)
1. Before digging, use string, 100' tape measure and marking paint to mark every 10 ft
(or 8 ft if using 8 ft rails) centers for entire fence area. Keep your markings small about
2" in diameter. You can now remove string out of way before digging holes.
2. Use a post hole digger or auger to dig all holes approximately 10-12" wide and
between 24 to 27" inches deep to ensure top rail is approximately 36" (for 2-rail) or 48"
(for 3-rail) inches above ground. (Note- try to keep the top of posts in line and at a
height that is pleasing to the eye to see. Don't worry about following the ground level
exactly since not all ground is perfectly level.)
3. Start by installing one of your corner (or end) posts plumb and straight.
4. Tie a string to this post and also at the other end of fence line and pull tight (it is
recommended that your second end of fence line is marked by using a wooden or metal
stake).
5. After corner post is level and securely set with either some gravel or dirt from hole
(DO NOT USE CONCRETE! You want water to drain away from post and not get
trapped in as concrete does.) slide some rails into the pre-drilled holes into the first
post. Then do the same for the next, or second post. Helpful tip: It is best to angle the
second post a little away from first post and start installing the bottom rail first; then work
your way up by pulling second post closer in towards first post while at same time
placing the second rail into next hole in post; repeat for top rail or hole #3 on 3-rail style
fence. After all rails are in place, use a soft rubber mallet (not a hard metal hammer) to
hit the outside of post so as to pound in towards rails which will then seat the rails
securely into both posts. You want all rails to be as snug as possible.
6. Make sure second post is straight up-n-down and in line with your end of fence.
Once it is in the right spot you can now tamp dirt (or gravel) around the second post.
Make sure you pack it thoroughly. Note: Some people like to place a tight string
between both ends of fence line and at a height near the top of the posts. With string in
place all you have to do is lean the next post (with rails already in place) up against the
string so that edge of post makes slight contact with string. Make sure the top of post is
at the desired height before throwing in dirt/gravel and packing. This should help keep
a straight fence.
7. When you are placing the rails into the post's holes try to ensure that the widest side
of the rail is on top (up towards the sky and not towards the ground). It is recommended
also that you use the largest of your rails for the top rail (for added strength) and then
on the bottom rail with the middle rail being the smallest in diameter of all rails used.
8. Continue installing rails and posts in the above manner until entire fence is completed.
9. Remember our pre-made 2- and 3-Rail Split Cedar Gates are 48 inches wide and will
require approximately a 52 inch opening. We have custom made gate hinges and
latches (in various styles) to accommodate any of your needs. Please contact us so
that we can get you the correct hardware and provide you with the correct "opening"
width you will need for your gate to fit properly.
10. Once fence is installed, you may need to raise or lower a fence post a little either
way so as to make it "picture perfect" to the natural eye. To raise a post, simply use a 4'
jack (or similar jack) and place it under one of the bottom rails close to the post. Crank
jack up till post is lifted out of ground to desired height level. Before releasing jack,
re-tamp the dirt/gravel around the base of post. To lower a post, hit the top of post
downward using bottom edge of a front end loader or tractor bucket or your tamping
bar. It may take a few hits to get the desired height. This is why we like to drill or dig our
holes in the beginning a little lower than we actually need- we have a little soft dirt to
drive these post into if needed.
11. Install any gates if needed (follow instructions in packet that comes with hardware).
12. We highly recommend that you use a 3" #8 treated wood/deck screw (they have
them colored to match redwood/cedar decks) and drill one screw into each post for
every rail end. Every rail end should have one screw holding it to the post. This will
prevent rail from wanting to shift or fall out years down the road. It is a simple thing to
do and it will add many years to your fence. After all- we want this to be the last fence
you will ever need to install in your lifetime around your property.
13. If you want to preserve the natural color of your new cedar fence you can use a
wood preservative (similar to what is used on log homes) to accomplish this. We like to
use a product made by Behr. It is their Natural 500 product. No color is added, it may
look a little tan when applied but when it dries it goes clear. Product label claims a fence
will need to be re-coated every 7 years. This may be sprayed on or brushed on. If this
treatment is not added, your fence will naturally turn grey in color over the years.
14. Now you can RELAX & ENJOY your new fence. P.S. Send us some pictures!
1. Before digging, use string, 100' tape measure and marking paint to mark every 10 ft
(or 8 ft if using 8 ft rails) centers for entire fence area. Keep your markings small about
2" in diameter. You can now remove string out of way before digging holes.
2. Use a post hole digger or auger to dig all holes approximately 10-12" wide and
between 24 to 27" inches deep to ensure top rail is approximately 36" (for 2-rail) or 48"
(for 3-rail) inches above ground. (Note- try to keep the top of posts in line and at a
height that is pleasing to the eye to see. Don't worry about following the ground level
exactly since not all ground is perfectly level.)
3. Start by installing one of your corner (or end) posts plumb and straight.
4. Tie a string to this post and also at the other end of fence line and pull tight (it is
recommended that your second end of fence line is marked by using a wooden or metal
stake).
5. After corner post is level and securely set with either some gravel or dirt from hole
(DO NOT USE CONCRETE! You want water to drain away from post and not get
trapped in as concrete does.) slide some rails into the pre-drilled holes into the first
post. Then do the same for the next, or second post. Helpful tip: It is best to angle the
second post a little away from first post and start installing the bottom rail first; then work
your way up by pulling second post closer in towards first post while at same time
placing the second rail into next hole in post; repeat for top rail or hole #3 on 3-rail style
fence. After all rails are in place, use a soft rubber mallet (not a hard metal hammer) to
hit the outside of post so as to pound in towards rails which will then seat the rails
securely into both posts. You want all rails to be as snug as possible.
6. Make sure second post is straight up-n-down and in line with your end of fence.
Once it is in the right spot you can now tamp dirt (or gravel) around the second post.
Make sure you pack it thoroughly. Note: Some people like to place a tight string
between both ends of fence line and at a height near the top of the posts. With string in
place all you have to do is lean the next post (with rails already in place) up against the
string so that edge of post makes slight contact with string. Make sure the top of post is
at the desired height before throwing in dirt/gravel and packing. This should help keep
a straight fence.
7. When you are placing the rails into the post's holes try to ensure that the widest side
of the rail is on top (up towards the sky and not towards the ground). It is recommended
also that you use the largest of your rails for the top rail (for added strength) and then
on the bottom rail with the middle rail being the smallest in diameter of all rails used.
8. Continue installing rails and posts in the above manner until entire fence is completed.
9. Remember our pre-made 2- and 3-Rail Split Cedar Gates are 48 inches wide and will
require approximately a 52 inch opening. We have custom made gate hinges and
latches (in various styles) to accommodate any of your needs. Please contact us so
that we can get you the correct hardware and provide you with the correct "opening"
width you will need for your gate to fit properly.
10. Once fence is installed, you may need to raise or lower a fence post a little either
way so as to make it "picture perfect" to the natural eye. To raise a post, simply use a 4'
jack (or similar jack) and place it under one of the bottom rails close to the post. Crank
jack up till post is lifted out of ground to desired height level. Before releasing jack,
re-tamp the dirt/gravel around the base of post. To lower a post, hit the top of post
downward using bottom edge of a front end loader or tractor bucket or your tamping
bar. It may take a few hits to get the desired height. This is why we like to drill or dig our
holes in the beginning a little lower than we actually need- we have a little soft dirt to
drive these post into if needed.
11. Install any gates if needed (follow instructions in packet that comes with hardware).
12. We highly recommend that you use a 3" #8 treated wood/deck screw (they have
them colored to match redwood/cedar decks) and drill one screw into each post for
every rail end. Every rail end should have one screw holding it to the post. This will
prevent rail from wanting to shift or fall out years down the road. It is a simple thing to
do and it will add many years to your fence. After all- we want this to be the last fence
you will ever need to install in your lifetime around your property.
13. If you want to preserve the natural color of your new cedar fence you can use a
wood preservative (similar to what is used on log homes) to accomplish this. We like to
use a product made by Behr. It is their Natural 500 product. No color is added, it may
look a little tan when applied but when it dries it goes clear. Product label claims a fence
will need to be re-coated every 7 years. This may be sprayed on or brushed on. If this
treatment is not added, your fence will naturally turn grey in color over the years.
14. Now you can RELAX & ENJOY your new fence. P.S. Send us some pictures!
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Installation Tips
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We can assist with marking post locations and drilling holes for as little as a $1.00 linear foot or even assist in "Full-Installation" for $4.50 to $6.00 linear foot. (Prices may vary a little depending on ground conditions and traveling distance.) Please call Cory Ihler directly to get a FREE price quote for your specific needs. |
| HOW TO INSTALL YOUR NEW SPLIT-RAIL CEDAR FENCE? |
| PLEASE REMEMBER TO HAVE ALL UNDERGROUND UTILITIES MARKED BEFORE YOU DIG! Call 811 |
| Check to see if it is in line... |
| Enjoy your new fence! |
| Then- tamp...tamp...tamp ! |
| Mark your post locations... |
| 12" auger |
| Begin to dig holes... |
| Stagging Yards : Malad City, ID Plain City, UT |
| Ihler Sales & Distribution Cory Ihler- Owner Malad City, ID 208.766.0947 wk 208.851.0466 cell 208.766.2050 fax Specialized in Split-Rail Cedar Fence and 5.5 Cu.Yd. Cedar Bales |